Testing Of Textiles, Yarn, Fabric, Garment Accessories, Auxiliaries, Dyes & Chemicals, Water & Effluent.
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
 
 
 
SPECIFICATION
   
A Precise statement of a set of requirements to be satisfied by a material, product,system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the requirement is satisfied.
   
 
COLOUR FASTNESS
 
The property of resistance to a named agency ,e.g.washing, light, croaking, gas-fumes etc. Note : On the standard scale, five grades are usually recognized ,from 5, signifying no visible change, to 1,substantial change, For light fastness,eight grades are used, 8 representing the highest degree of fastness.
 
 
COLOUR STAINING
   
The unintended transfer of colour from a textile to another textile with which it is in contact,usually in wet or damp conditions.
   
  BLEEDING
   
Loss of colourant from a coloured material in contact with a liquor,leading to an obvious colouration of the latter,or of adjacent areas of the same or other materials.
   
  CROSS STAINING
 
In fastness testing of coloured textiles the transfer of colourant from the test material to adjacent material. In textile printing ,the tinting of whites in the washing process.
 
 
MULTIFIBRE FABRIC
 
Adjacent fabric used in fastness test staining to assess on various types of fibres. Warp stripes are of different fibers such as acetate,bleached cotton,polyamide,polyester,acrylic,wool/ Viscose.
 
 
GREY SCALE
 
A series of pairs of neutrally coloured chips,showing increasing contrast within pairs,used visually to assess contrast between other pairs of pattern ,for example the ISO Grey scale comprise two series of chips against which the magnitude of the change in colour of a specimen submitted to a fastness test and of staining of adjacent uncoloured material can be visually assessed and rated on a 1 to 5 scale.
 
 
NOMENCLATURE FOR COLOUR FASTNESS RATINGS
 
DEGREE OF CHANGE IN SHADE
5
 
Negligible or no change
 
4
 
Slightly changed
 
3
 
Noticeably changed
 
2
 
Considerably changed
 
1
 
Much changed
 
   
 
 
DEGREE OF STAINING
 
5
 
Negligible or no staining
 
4
 
Slightly stained
 
3
 
Noticeably stained
 
2
 
Considerably stained
 
1
 
Much stained
 
 
 
COLOURFASTESS TO LIGHT
 
The rating varies from to 8 where 1 indicates poor fastness and 8 indicates excellent fastness.
 
 
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
 
The ability of a fabric or floor covering to retain its dimensions when exposed to use and/ or an ageing process, to water, washing, steaming, drying or other process. Change, in length and/ or width of a textile when subjected to specified conditions.
Note: The changes may be positive (Elongation) or negative (shrinkage).
 
 
APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING
 
Visual appearance of garment/ fabric after laundering as compared to original.
 
 
COLOUR FASTNESS TO ACTUAL LAUNDERING
 
Rating by Grey scale for changes in shade or depth loss after domestic wash as per care instruction.
 
 
ABRASION TEST
 
A test used to simulate and wear performance of textile yarns, fabric or floor covering, in use.
 
 
TENSILE STRENGTH / BREAKING STRENGTH
 
The maximum tensile force in extending a test piece to breaking point.
Newton= 9.81x Kg force Newton= 4.45 x pound force
 
 
% ELONGATION BREAK
 
The average force required to continue a tear previously started in a fabric.
 
 
PILLING
 
The entangling of fibers during washing, dry cleaning, testing or in wear to form balls or pills which stand proud on the surface of a fabric and which are of such density that light will not pass through them (so that they cast a shadow).
 
 
PILLING RATING
 
1
 
Very severe pilling
 
2
 
Severe pilling
 
3
 
Moderate pilling
 
4
 
Slight pilling
 
5
 
No pilling
 
 
 
BURSTING TEST
 
A test in which a fabric specimen, held in place by a coaxial ring clamp of given diameter, is distended to rupture either by the distension of an elastic diaphragm when subjected to fluid pressure or by the action of a ball moving through the ring clamp.
Kilonewton per sq. metre ( kPa) = 6.89x Pound force per sq. inch (lbs/sq.inch)
 
 
NUMBER OF THREDS/ UNIT LENGTH (THREAD DENSITY)
 
The number of warp yarns (ends) in a specified width of fabric. The number of weft yarns (picks) in a specified length of fabric.
Number of threads per centimetre = 0.3937 x Number of threads per inch
 
 
YARN NUMBER / COUNT OF YARN
 
It is a numerical expression of fineness of yarn and expressed in terms of mass per unit length such as Tex and Denier in the direct system or the length per unit mass of a yarn, such as a Cotton count, worsted count in the indirect system
Denier = 9x Tex, Tex= 590.5/ Ne (Cotton Count), Denier = 5315 / Ne (cotton Count)
 
 
WEIGHT PER UNIT AREA
 
Mass / Weight per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (Ounces per square yard.)
Grams per sq.metre = 33906 x Ounces per sq. yard
 
 
WRINKLE RESISTANCE / CREASE RESISTANCE
 
Resistance to, and/ or recovery from, creasing of a textile material during use.
Note: It may still be possible to introduce defined creases in a crease- resistance fabric by the application of heat and pressure.
        The early use of the 'non-crush' finish was replaced by 'anti-crease' finish and 'crease-resist' finish;
        'Easy-care' fabric is a more general resistance.
 
 
CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE
 
It is a quantitative measure of crease resistance.
 
 
SEAM SLIPPAGE
 
The unwanted displacement of fabric yarns parallel to a seam arising from transverse stress, resulting in a partial or complete loss of seam integrity.
 
 
SEAM STRENGTH
 
The load required to cause seam failure, either in a sample removed from a made-up product or in a sample made to simulate a seam in a products to burn with a flame under specified test conditions.
 
 
FLAMMABILITY
 
The ability of a material or products to burn with a flame under specified test conditions.
 
 
BLEND COMPOSITION
 
Qualitative test method describes chemical and microscopical technique for identifying textile fibers. Quantitative test method presents individuals procedures for the quantitative determination of moisture content, non fibrous content and fiber composition of textile.
 
 
ABSORBENCY
 
The propensity of a material to take in and retain liquid, usually water, in the pores and interstices of the material.
 
 
WATER REPELLENCY
 
The relative degree of resistance of a fabric to surface wetting,water penetration ,water absorption,or any combination of these properties. Note: The term is used in relation to tests carried out with several very different pieces of apparatus and, therefore,
         The same parameters are not involved in every case(e.g. , Bundesmann test,Wira shower test,
         Credit rain simulation tester,spray ratingtest).
 
 
TWIST
 
The number of turns about its axis per uit of length,observed in a yarn or other textile strands. Twist direction is described as S and Z according to the direction to which centre is inclined ,when yarn is viewed vertically.
 
 
WEAVE
 
The pattern of interlacing of warp and weft in a woven fabric.eg.plain,Twill,Drill,Satin,Sateen etc.
 
 
CARDED YARN
 
A yarn produced from fibres that have been carded but not combed.
 
 
COMBED YARN
 
Yarn produced from fibres that have been carded(or prepared) and combed.
 
 
TEXTURISED YARN
 
Contineous filament yarns which have been processed to introduce durable crimps,coils, loops or other fine distortion along the length of the filament.
 
 
BOW
 
A fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedges and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric
 
 
SKEW
 
A fabric condition in which warp and weft yarns, although straight, are not at right angle to each other.
 
 
LEA STRENGTH
 
The force required to rupture a lea of yarn, expressed in units of force,as breaking load.
 
 
LEA COUNT- STRENGTH PRODUCT,CSP
 
The product of the lea strength(Poundforce),and the actual count(Ne) of cotton yarn.
 
 
SINGLE YARN BREAKING STRENGTH
 
The breaking strength of a single strand of yarn,mono filament or cord,not knotted or looped but running straight between the clamps of the testing machine.
 
 
RKM (Rhy's Kilometer):
 
It is a measure of tenacity and expressed as Gms / Tex
   
 
IDENTIFICATION OF DYE
 
It aims towards determining the class of dye used on yarn /fabric during Dyeing/printing.
 
 
BARIUM ACTIVITY NUMBER (DEGREE OF MERCERISATION)
 
It is the ratio of amount of Barium hydroxide absorbed by the mercerised specimen to that absorbed by the unmercerised specimen multiplied by 100 . It indicates the presence and completeness of the mercerising process in cotton yarns and fabrics.
Barium activity number in the range of 100 -105 indicates no mercerisation ,in the range of 140-150 indicates complete mercerisation ,in the range of 120-130 (for high twist yarn/fabric in the range of 115-125) indicates satisfactory mercerisation.
 
 
SIZE ON THE FABRIC
 
Amount of nonfibrous material deposited during sizing (on warp)
 
 
WATER SOLUBLE MATTER
 
Amount of soluble matter which can be removed by washing.
 
 
ASH CONTENT
 
It express the amount of inorganic material presents on textile material. It could be due to non removal of inorganic material during processing,non removal of processing chemicals during washing or salt deposited (from water hardness etc).
 
 
WAX CONTENT
 
Amount of natural or added wax present in textile material.
 
TOTAL EXTRACTABLE CONTENT
 
Expresses the amount of organic matter which can be removed by repeated treatment with suitable solvent.
   
 
TERRY RATIO
 
Ratio of pile length to warp length.
PILE HEIGHT
Length of pile or tufts above the backing measured in a vertical plane.
NUMBER OF FILAMENT
It is the number of individual filaments per yarn.
ZIPPER STRENGTH
It evaluates the usefulness of a zipper in service.
pH
It expresses Acidity/Alkalinity on a scale from 0 to 14,with 7 indicating neutrality.Numbers less than 7 indicate increasing Acidity and greater than 7 indicated increasing Alkalinity.
BANNED AMINES
Certain amines which are carcinogenic/harmful to humans are termed as banned amines. Dyes/colourant based on these amines are forbidden. Amount of these amines released under specified conditions from dyed /printed material is determined in terms of ppm.
FORMALDEHYDE
Certain auxiliary chemicals are based on formaldehyde. Restricted use minimises the amount of released or free formaldehyde from textiles.
HEAVY METALS
Although heavy metals in small quantities are essential to life they can turn toxic in higher concentrations. Limiting values for heavy metals such as Arsenic,Antimony, Cadmium,Chromium, cobalt,copper,lead,Mercury and Nickel have been stipulated in various eco standards.
RESIDUAL CHLORINE
Left over chlorine on the textile after bleaching.
PCP (PENTA CHLORO PHENOL)
It is a harmful preservative
PCB (POLY CHLORINATED BIPHENYL)
It is a harmful herbicide.
PESTICIDES
These are organic compounds applied to control insects ,weeds and diseases on plants.
WATER HARDNESS
Certain salts of Calcium and Magnesium when present in water contributes to water hardness .Hardness is expresses as temporary and permanent.
BOD(Biological Oxygen Demand)
It is an important effluent characteristic. It can be taken care of by bilogical treatment.
COD(CHEMICAL OXYGEN Demand)
It is an important effluent characteristic .It is due to reducing chemicals present in effluent.
Eco -Textile
Textile which does not contain any hazardous or toxic substance and is biologically degradable ,so that it does not cause damage to humanbeings,environment and ecology.
ECOLABLE
The systems which guarantees that the labelled products have been successfully tested and certified as being free from the levels of harmful substances that could pose any risk to human health.
 
 
 
 
 
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